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Women’s Day 2021: Karishma Shahani Khan Speaks About Her Label, Responsible Fashion, And Digital Fashion Week
The visual concepts can sometimes overshadow clothes but on rare occasions, you pause and reflect because you find yourself appreciating a connect between clothes and concept. The fashion label, Ka-Sha is such a rarity, which strikes a perfect balance between visual narrative and artisanal heritage. With Ka-Sha's Instagram feed boasting a meticulous display of breezy clothes against unassuming backdrops, the label founded by Karishma Shahani Khan, beckons us to value homegrown crafts heritage and contemporary garment construction. "I believe in creating contemporary outfits but introducing textiles, concepts, and stories, so that anywhere in the world the brand's clothes can be worn," expresses Karishma.
Somewhere between minimalism and maximalist, Ka-Sha is the label that has evolved in such a way that it cannot be boxed into a certain singular thought-process. The diverse outfits ideated and designed by Karishma Shahani celebrates splash of hues as much as the classic monochromes - her collections are about reinterpretation of traditional fashion. For instance, the designer's Summer 20 collection, Bahaar is striking for it can it be observed in myriad of ways. If there are a burst of vibrant blooms on pristine whites in her collection, Bahaar also offers colourful patchworks and opaque outfits. Karishma Shahani has built a label that is an articulation of many perceptions, which is also what makes Ka-Sha interesting because you have no idea of what the next collection is about, but fashion is not what came naturally to Karishma.
Reminiscing about her childhood memories, the Pune-based designer says, "I grew up wanting to be a vet, anthropologist, and pilot. I loved Bollywood movies but fashion wasn't my particular inspiration." However, she also reveals, "there was a book on sketching of clothes, which I still have, and that book gave me an insight into fashion." Subsequently, Karishma Shahani grew curious about clothes and the history of costumes. She studied at the London College of Fashion, where she was given the Best Surface Textiles award and speaking about her experience, she says, "At London School of Fashion, they are very nuanced in designing and technical details and I learnt from there that designs don't have to be necessarily overcomplicated. Studying over there, I realised how much I appreciate textile and heritage in India, which otherwise staying in India, I didn't think about much."
Her exposure led to the inception of Ka-Sha and ever since the beginning of the label, Karishma Shahani has been focused on promotion of textiles and artistic legacy of the country. Be it her interpretation of khadi or highlighting mirror-work, or inspiring us with quilt and patchwork, the designer has always stayed rooted but also showed how responsible she is about choosing a fabric or process. For instance, she says that, with patchwork outfits, she is able to reuse and recycle materials not used. However, the designer is reluctant about using the word, 'sustainable'. She shares, "sustainable is an overused word and nowhere in the label's bio you would find that we have used the word sustainable. Sustainable has become a narrow word as increasingly, it is only limited to raw materials or the process, whereas sustainability is about lifestyle." Karishma Shahani, who with her label practices a zero-wastage policy, adds, "We are a conscious design label."
In order to promote conscious designs in the times of fast-fashion, Karishma Shahani believes that consistently educating the customers is what will help eco-friendly designs to flourish. "We can keep educating why a certain fabric is better than the other. For instance, why polyester is harmful and what are the benefits of cotton," she said. Speaking about fast fashion, the designer gets to the practical side, she elaborates, "Who hasn't bought an outfit from a label like Zara or doesn't have something as common as a white shirt in the wardrobe? It is not fast fashion per se, which is the problem but the issue is in the process that fast fashion incorporates."
Fast fashion is a rising issue because it has resulted in alarming environmental concerns, exploitation of labour, and wastage of resources. In the regard, the designer makes an interesting point, "the mass production itself is not sustainable an idea because you are using more fabrics and materials - which results in wastage. In this context, the collaboration between the two major fashion giants FDCI and Lakmé Fashion Week has been great because from an environmental point of view, it is significant. It encourages quality over quantity and you don't need a huge number of collections to show."
With FDCI + Lakmé Fashion Week beginning from 16th March 2021 and digital fashion week becoming the new normal due to pandemic, the designer feels, "nothing can replace the runways. The entire walk, touch, and feel of the fabric is what is missing in digital. There is a huge difference between digital and ramp. Now, both have advantages but at the physical venue, you (the audience) get to be a part of the show and on the digital front, as a designer you have a wider audience. What I feel is that there should be a balance between the two. So, for instance there can be a digital movie and a special runway or collection viewing for the buyers and discerning fashion audience."
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