Ralph Lauren Showcases ‘Jhumkas’ At Paris Fashion Week, Rekindling Debate On Credit For Indian Craft

Add as a preferred source on Google

Luxury fashion often borrows from cultures around the world. But sometimes, that borrowing feels a little too familiar. That is exactly the reaction many people had when models from Paris Fashion Week walked the ramp wearing what looked unmistakably like jhumkas - the traditional bell-shaped earrings many Indians have grown up seeing at weddings, festivals and family celebrations.

Photo Credit: Instagram@poloralphlauren

The twist? They were part of a luxury international fashion collection, with no mention of their Indian roots. The moment sparked a larger conversation that fashion has faced many times before: when inspiration crosses the line into appropriation.

Polo Ralph Lauren And The Jhumka Controversy

The debate began after Ralph Lauren presented its Fall 2026 women's collection at Paris Fashion Week.

On the runway, several models wore dangling earrings that closely resembled traditional Indian Jhumka Earrings. The bell-shaped silhouette, layered structure and ornate detailing were strikingly similar to the jewellery style widely associated with South Asia.

The brand's social media posts described the pieces as "authentic vintage accessories." What caught people's attention was that the description did not include any reference to India or South Asian jewellery traditions.

Within hours, screenshots from the show began circulating across social media platforms. Many users pointed out that the design looked identical to the classic 'jhumka' worn across India for centuries.

Why The Runway Moment Sparked Backlash

The criticism centred on a familiar concern: cultural appropriation.

Many observers argued that the design is deeply rooted in Indian jewellery heritage. Presenting it on an international runway without acknowledging that background felt dismissive to critics.

Others pointed out a pattern that has played out before in the fashion industry. Western luxury houses often reinterpret designs from Asian or African cultures and present them as new creations, sometimes selling them at prices far removed from their original context.

Some posts described the moment as a form of "whitewashing," where traditional designs are repackaged in luxury fashion without recognition of their cultural origins.

The Brand's Response So Far

Reports later suggested that the earrings were linked to Ralph Lauren's "Authentic Makers" programme, which involves collaborations with Native American designers.

However, the explanation did not directly address the resemblance to Indian jhumkas. As of now, the company has not issued a detailed clarification specifically acknowledging Indian inspiration. That silence has kept the conversation alive online.

This Is Not The First Time Global Fashion Faced This Question

The debate around the jhumkas did not emerge in isolation. Over the past few years, several international fashion brands have faced criticism for showcasing Indian-inspired designs without clear credit.

Prada And Kolhapuri Chappals

In 2025, Prada showcased sandals during Milan Fashion Week that looked nearly identical to traditional Kolhapuri Chappal.

These handcrafted leather sandals originate from Maharashtra and have been made by artisans for generations.

At the runway show, the footwear was simply described as leather sandals. There was no mention of Kolhapuri heritage.

The price difference caught attention as well. Luxury versions reportedly sold for around $800, while original Kolhapuri chappals often cost a small fraction of that in Indian markets.

After widespread criticism from artisans, politicians and business groups, a public interest litigation was filed in the Bombay High Court. Eventually, Prada acknowledged the Indian inspiration and began discussions with artisan groups.

Dior And Lucknow's Mukaish Embroidery

Another debate surfaced around a couture coat from Dior featuring Mukaish Embroidery, a traditional craft associated with Lucknow.

The coat reportedly carried a price tag of around $200,000.

The embroidery work was created by a group of Indian artisans over several weeks. Critics pointed out that despite the labour involved, the craft tradition and the artisans themselves were not prominently credited.

The conversation quickly expanded into a broader discussion about how Indian craftspeople often remain invisible in global luxury supply chains.

Zara And The "Lungi-Inspired" Skirt

In 2018, Zara faced criticism after releasing a checked wrap skirt that many people said closely resembled the traditional South Asian Lungi. The product was listed on the brand's website simply as a "check mini skirt," described as a draped skirt with front detailing. What caught people's attention was the absence of any reference to the lungi, a garment widely worn across Kerala, Tamil Nadu and several other parts of South Asia.

The skirt reportedly sold for around $89, while a traditional lungi usually costs only a few dollars in local markets. Social media users quickly pointed out the contrast, questioning how a garment associated with everyday wear in the region could be repackaged as a premium global fashion item without acknowledging its cultural roots.

Why These Controversies Keep Appearing

Fashion historians say several factors make these situations common. One reason is that global fashion constantly searches for visual inspiration. Designers regularly explore cultures from Asia, Africa and Latin America for motifs, textiles and silhouettes.

Another challenge lies in legal protection. Traditional crafts rarely have the same international safeguards as patents or trademarks, making it difficult for communities to claim ownership. Luxury branding also changes how objects are perceived. A craft item sold locally at a modest price can suddenly appear on a runway with a dramatically different value tag.

And perhaps the biggest issue is recognition. The artisans who preserve these traditions often remain unnamed while the finished pieces appear under luxury labels.

Appreciation Or Appropriation?

Fashion experts often explain the difference in simple terms.

Cultural appreciation involves acknowledging origins, collaborating with artisans and sharing visibility or profits with the communities that created the craft.

Cultural appropriation, on the other hand, happens when designs are used without credit while the commercial benefits flow elsewhere.

The Conversation Around Craft And Credit

The debate triggered by the Ralph Lauren runway earrings goes far beyond one accessory. It reflects a growing awareness about where fashion ideas come from and who gets recognised for them.

For many Indians, a 'jhumka' is not a novelty design discovered on a Paris runway. It is jewellery tied to memories of weddings, festivals and family heirlooms.

That is why the question people keep asking is simple: when global fashion celebrates these designs, should it also acknowledge the cultures that created them?