What Does Indian Design Mean Today? A Creative Director Explains

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Open a jewellery box in almost any Indian home and it holds more than metal and stone. A pair of earrings can carry the memory of a region, a craft that took years to learn, or an architectural detail someone once admired. Design in India has always worked this way, through stories passed from one hand to the next.

Photo Credit: Chat GPT

But as tastes change and fast production becomes the norm, a question keeps coming up: what does Indian design actually mean today, and how does it stay true to its roots without standing still?

We spoke to Minna Elizabeth, Creative Director, POYEMS, who explained how she sees Indian design, why craft matters more than ever, and what designers owe to the traditions they draw from.

Storytelling Of Our Roots

"Indian design, to me, is storytelling of our roots," Elizabeth said.

She is quick to say it cannot be pinned to one look. "It is difficult to define it through a single visual language because India itself is made up of so many of them. Every state, community and craft tradition carries its own vocabulary through its materials, techniques, motifs, architecture, textiles, jewellery and everyday objects. What we call Indian design is, in many ways, a collection of these different stories coming together."

Traditions That Keep Evolving

For Elizabeth, the interesting part is not looking back but what happens next. "What interests me is how these cultural narratives can continue to evolve. Indian design today does not necessarily mean reproducing something traditional exactly as it was. It can mean understanding where something comes from, what it represents and why it was made, and then finding a contemporary expression for it."

Jewellery As Cultural Memory

Photo Credit: Chat GPT

Jewellery is where she sees this most clearly. "I see this particularly through jewellery. Techniques such as Thewa, with its intricate gold work fused onto coloured glass, and Meenakari, with its distinctive use of enamel and colour, carry histories and skills that have travelled through generations. These are not simply techniques; they are part of a larger cultural memory."

The same richness is close to her own home. "Closer home in Kerala, we have an equally rich visual vocabulary, with traditional jewellery forms inspired by familiar symbols, architecture, nature and elements of everyday life."

Even the landscape plays a part. "The surroundings in which we live can also become part of this visual vocabulary. Our geographical terrain, whether it is a beach, a mountain or a quieter natural setting, can influence the way we think about form, colour and scale, and even how jewellery is styled."

Preserving The Story Without Freezing It

"The exciting part is what happens when designers begin to look at these traditions differently," she said.

"A craft can become an object. An architectural detail can become jewellery. A familiar textile can take on an unexpected silhouette. Something inherited can be repurposed and given an entirely new context. The original inspiration remains recognisable, but the way it is presented allows it to speak to a different generation."

To her, that shift defines the moment. "For me, that transformation is an important part of Indian design today: preserving the story without freezing it in time."

Why The Value Of Making Matters

Minna believes people are paying more attention to how things are made. "There is a growing awareness around the value of making. In a world where so much can be produced quickly and replicated easily, craftsmanship offers something different, something unique every time."

She says the difference lies in the maker. "It carries the hand of the maker, the knowledge of a particular community, and the character that comes from a process developed over years, sometimes centuries."

Designing With Responsibility

With that heritage comes an obligation. "At the same time, I believe designers have a responsibility when working with cultural references. Inspiration should come with an understanding of context. When we borrow from a craft, tradition or community, it is important to look beyond its visual appeal and understand the story and skill behind it."

She describes Indian design as something larger than craft alone. "Indian design is therefore about craft and representation and also about authorship: taking the incredible cultural vocabulary we already have and allowing ourselves, as designers, to interpret it through objects, accessories, textiles, spaces and experiences."

Does The Monsoon Change What We Wear?

The rains do leave a mark on design, though not the one many people expect. "The monsoon offers another, more subtle influence on this design journey. It changes the way the landscape is perceived: the soil becomes darker, the greens appear brighter and the surroundings feel sharper," added Elizabeth. That shift in perspective can sometimes find its way into a collection through deeper tones, darker stones or different colour choices compared to summer.

She draws a clear line, however. "I would not, however, connect the monsoon directly to what jewellery we choose to wear. Climate has very little significance in that sense. There may be occasions where lighter jewellery feels more natural, but our surroundings and the setting have a greater role to play. The influence is therefore less about dressing for the weather and more about how the season can subtly alter a designer's visual perspective."

Bottomline

For Elizabeth, the tension between old and new is exactly what keeps Indian design alive. "Perhaps that is what makes Indian design so exciting. It can be deeply rooted and still constantly evolving. It can carry the memory of where we come from while making room for where we are going."

"The past does not have to remain untouched for it to remain meaningful. Sometimes, the best way to preserve a story is to allow it to continue changing."